LAHIJ

The town of Lahij high in the Caucasus is connected to the outside world by a road that winds its way around precipitous gorges.

Lahij is surrounded by tall mountains that are layered with limestone, sandstone and clay. Stone from these mountains was used to build most of the houses in the village. Once in town, you'll probably notice that the houses seem to have been placed there randomly, without any set plan, along the narrow and winding cobblestone streets. All of the houses have flat roofs, and some feature balconies that look out onto the street. If you get a chance to step inside one of the small courtyards, you'll be likely to see a "tendir," which is an oven used for baking bread. On the other side of the courtyard, you'll usually find a stable or a chicken coop.
Inside the houses, you'll find a heating device called a "kursu." A kursu is a big table placed above a kerosene stove or hearth and covered with a big blanket. In the winter, the entire family gathers around the kursu to stretch out their legs and warm their feet. Even families that are financially secure who use fireplaces to warm their guest rooms, put a kursu to warm their own family's room.

Many of the 2,000 people living in Lahij are involved in ancient crafts such as engraved copper work and carpet weaving. In the mid-19th century, there were more than 200 workshops in Lahij. Traders discovered Lahij crafts many centuries ago, and sold them for high prices at bazaars in Baghdad [now Iraq], Shiraz [now Iran] and other Middle Eastern cities. Stop by a copper workshop for a impromptu lesson in ancient craftsmanship you'll get to see coppersmiths use small mallets to decorate plates, trays, jugs, goblets and pitchers, just as their ancestors have done for centuries.

On the streets of Lahij you'll also come across "attar" (folk medicine) shops. Not far from Lahij is a cold water source with a high sulfur content; many people go there in hope of curing their skin problems. Also, make sure to see the history museum, the 13th century sewage system, the aging Caravanserai (hotel for travelers with camel caravans) and Ghirdiman Fortress, which dates back to the 5th century.

Why is Lahij so different from its neighbor village across the way? Local legend tells that Iranian Shah Kay Khosrow retired to this village in the Caucasus because of its pleasant climate and picturesque scenery. In the Zavara cemetery, there's even a grave with a tombstone that clearly reads "Kay Khosrow," along with other tombstones that date back more than 1,000 years ago.

Perhaps a 1,000-year-old tombstone doesn't seem out of place in such an ancient village. Such an artifact fits an observation made about Lahij in a recent U.N. report about Azerbaijan: "Lahij has preserved its communal harmony and social cohesion across the centuries. The spirit of the Middle Ages still lingers there."