Egypt

Travelers have been marveling at Egypt's wondrous antiquities for thousands of years -- even the ancient Greeks and Romans were awed by them. But today, a visit to Egypt is more than an immersion in past glories.
While modern life coexists in close proximity with the legacies of the past, it has also opened up possibilities for exploring a wider area of Egypt. In addition to the great monuments of the Nile Valley, an Egyptian itinerary is also likely to include diving along the Red Sea coast or a desert trek to remote oases or the Sinai. The hub of transportation -- and most likely your first and last stop in the country -- remains Cairo, a city that never fails to make a strong impression.

Cairo

Travelers to this metropolis will find it to be an often bewildering mixture of old and new: Business people in suits sit at sidewalk coffee shops with country people in traditional robes, and minarets and domes share the skyline with high-rise office buildings and hotel towers. Traditional music competes with jazz or karaoke or -- more commonly -- the incessant honking of horns. Set reasonable goals and take frequent breaks at cafes and you'll have a memorable time.

Cairo attractions:

The Pyramids and Sphinx at Giza; the Citadel; the exotic Khan el-Khalili bazaar; the Ibn Tulun Mosque; the Mosque of Sultan Hassan.
Museums -- Tutankhamen's treasures at the Egyptian Antiquities Museum; exquisite architectural details and royal family collections at the Manial Palace Museum; rare Islamic tapestries, carpets and armor at the Museum of Islamic Art; early Christian artifacts at the Coptic Museum.
Memorable Meals -- A nighttime cruise with dinner and lively entertainment on the Nile Crystal; fine dining and panoramic views at Rotisserie Belvedere; traditional Egyptian fare at Felfela.
Late Night -- Middle Eastern cabaret with dance performances by accomplished belly dancers -- at most five-star hotels; salsa dancing at clubs across the city.
Recreation -- Horse and camel riding at the pyramids; felucca sailing on the Nile; short treks in the desert around Cairo.

Alexandria

The country's second-largest city (pop. 3,395,000) Alexandria is worth a day's visit for the atmosphere alone: It has a relaxed, Mediterranean feel -- more laid-back than Cairo. The best place to soak in the atmosphere is on the newly restored Corniche, a promenade along the crescent-shaped bay. Marine archaeologists have located huge statues and other remains from the city's Hellenic and pharaonic past. One building may, or may not be, Cleopatra's palace.
Above water, the newest attraction is the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, a modern revival of the ancient library. Not far from the library is the Greco-Roman Museum, which displays artifacts from 300 BC to AD 300 -- almost modern by Egyptian standards. A well-preserved, but small, Roman amphitheater is near the museum. Other sights to visit in the city center include the Royal Jewelry Museum and the three-tiered Roman catacombs of Kom el-Shukafa.
At the western end of the harbor, on the island of Pharos, is Qait Bey, an impressive 15th-century fortress. It's on the site where the Great Lighthouse (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) once stood. Also near the western end of the Corniche, is Abu el-Abbas el-Mursi Mosque, the city's most important Islamic monument. It's a finely decorated building, with a towering minaret and four ornate domes.

Hurghada

This is the biggest resort on the Red Sea. It has a beautiful crescent-shaped bay, rugged mountains and good beaches, but the main attraction is a nearby coral reef -- one of the finest in the world. Local dive centers accommodate both snorkelers and scuba divers. Deep-sea fishing and other water sports are also popular. Just 3 mi/5 km north of town is the Marine Museum. It has excellent ocean/fish life -- plan on spending at least two hours to see the museum.
Hurghada is 385 km southeast of Cairo.

Sharm el Sheikh

This town near the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula is the most developed resort in the area -- it's a good base for exploring the rest of the peninsula and a good spot for diving and other water sports. Most of the tourist facilities are at Naama Bay. Accommodations range from luxury to budget, and there are also casinos, nightclubs and shopping malls. Some of the best diving and snorkeling in the Red Sea, or even in the world, is nearby at Ras Mohamed. The national marine preserve at the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula has incredible coral reefs and abundant marine life. There are regular flights and buses between Cairo and Sharm el-Sheikh.